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Materials

Sand Dunes at Night
Biz StrategyCircularityConsumer-ismDefinitionsFinanceMaterials

Straight Talk: ESG is Not ‘Sustainability’

November 3, 2020
Financial accounting is rather ill suited as well as ill equipped to deal properly with a system that has finite natural resources. Else, why would it not record the environmental losses that come with e.g. extracting bauxite? And what about ESG? Well it turns out, ESG is just more of the same (growth) just in a shade of ‘green’. It is for a reason that the Global Materials Footprint has kept growing in alignment with the much coveted GDP growth. Despite all green efforts. ESG – investing in ‘greener’ tech and businesses – is definitely NOT ‘Sustainability’ as we need it.
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Brockman 4 Iron ore Mine train
Biz StrategyGlobalisationGovernanceMaterials

Juukan Gorge and Leadership Ethics – Compound interest of: technocratic lawyers + profit focus + racism

September 22, 2020
On May 24th 2020 Rio Tinto blew up the Juukan Gorge rock shelters in Australia, which ancestors of the Puutu Kunti Kurrama and Pinikura (PKKP) people occupied over the course of 46’000 years.There are a multitude of lessons to be learned from the entire process that lead to the disastrous blast of a site of such archaeological importance. But also from how the scrutiny in its aftermaths and the have been. Here a selection of just a few to think about.
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True Colors - Keith Recker - Cover
Book ReviewsMaterialsSupply Chain

The Pleasure to know the How and Why: Craftsmanship, Connection, Activism

March 11, 2020
Daring to ask and daring to understand: the key ingredients that turn a passive customer in an active (activist) participant in our market economy. This book portrays 26 natural dye artisans, in beautiful pictures, honouring their skill and wisdom.
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Graphics Traceability System
Future TechMaterialsSupply Chain

The new cool in traceability: DNA Tracers / Bio-based markers

May 29, 2019
Authentication and traceability backbone solutions have become a key technology for many a brand to prevent not only product forgery, but also to prove truthfulness of on-and-off product claims. What few realise: product authentication is just one half of a 2-part system (Figure 1) whereby authentication is applied to the product at its point of origin, and a traceability backbone ensures that the product reaches its destination – for example the end consumer – safely and untampered.
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Recycled Wool Report - Title Page
CircularityMaterialsSupply Chain

One man’s woolly waste is another man’s woollen treasure

June 11, 2018
Wool is slowly recovering some of its former popularity. While for some it is an old acquaintance, for many others in our industry, and in this current time and age, it is a new, or maybe better novel, material for the portfolio. And what about Recycled Wool? This report answers many of the key questions.
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CircularityMaterialsSupply Chain

Extended Producer Responsibility – Lessons from the Electronics industry

August 3, 2017
Within the EU, legislative requirements have lead to implementation of Extended Producer Responsibility schemes (EPRs) in the following industries so far: packaging, electrical and electronic equipment, batteries and automotive industries. In this article, we would like to look sidewise, and see what can be learned from the electronic and electrical equipment industry, as they have been ahead of the curve – although not always voluntarily, since the 1995 laws came into place – when it comes to the implementation of EPR.
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CircularityMaterials

Marine Micro Fibres: Moving from Conversation to Action

October 27, 2016
The effect of plastics in our oceans has been repeatedly hit in the news over the last few years. A hazard in two forms: as a plastic in totality; or as a microfiber/micro particle, which also carries chemistry (pollution) into the environment, from the product they started life as. Research to date shows that this pollution cannot be exhaustively blocked through wastewater treatment plants, consequently micro particles are ending up in our global waterways.
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MaterialsSupply Chain

Italy: High-end Fashion Mekka – also for sustainability?

April 24, 2014
Italy. Known for the style of its inhabitants, the quality and sharp cut of its suits, the inventiveness of its fashion designers, the quality of its fabrics. Yet, if we were to talk sustainability in textiles and fashion, what is going on on the ground?
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MaterialsTrade Shows

Sustainability at Paris Textile Fairs: between visionary and greenwashing

April 16, 2014
Twice a season the fashion circus congregates in Paris not for showing their own achievements off, but rather to get inspired for their own 'what comes next'. In this article, I'll give a brief overview of 2 locations, and 3 shows: Paris' Première Vision and TexWorld, and Italy's Milano Unica.
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MaterialsSupply Chain

Material Traceability 101: An short intro for apparel brands

January 8, 2014
Traceability can be implemented at three different levels of stringency. Which level is implemented typically depends on the exact needs (technical, quality), legal and customer requirements – and last but not least also on the budget available.
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Brand PortraitsMaterialsSupply Chain

Indigo Blue – The Colour of Opportunity in El Salvador

August 15, 2013
Indigo is probably the most famous of all dye stuffs. Hacienda Los Nacimientos is one of only 2 farms world wide that produce certified organic Indigo, and is located in El Salavador. The farm's story reaches far back, and is marked by the years the country suffered from a violent guerilla civil war.
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Brand ReviewMaterialsSupply Chain

Better Business series: Adidas

July 24, 2013
Adidas was the first sportswear company to report on sustainability in 2000 following its first Standard of Engagement (SoE) in 1998. Allegations of sweatshops in their supply-chain preceded this move. The latest 2012 report is now out - what is does it say?
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cradle2cradle
Book ReviewsLabelsMaterials

Spotlight on labels: Cradle to Cradle Practitioners in Apparel and Textiles

July 19, 2013
The Cradle to Cradle (C2C) idea has been around for a good decade now, longer if we’d track it right back to its inception. The first C2C fabric was developed sometime in the early 2000s, and flies now around the world as upholstery fabric on the A380 Airbus models.
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Brand PortraitsMaterialsSupply Chain

Bonotto’s ‘Fabbrica Lenta’ – Craftsmanship above all

July 19, 2013
North Italian fabric manufacturer Bonotto is returning to their roots and at the same time giving luxury fashion fabrics a new lease of authenticity and craftsmanship. For their ‘Fabbrica Lenta‘ (the slow factory) range, they have unearthed the looms as well as dye techniques their district made its name with in the early 20th century.
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Brand ReviewMaterialsSupply Chain

Better Business series: C&A

July 9, 2013
C&A, part of the Cofra Holding that owns C&A Europe, Brazil, Mexico and China, has been a family business since 1841. The company is quite conservative in communicating corporate responsibility achievements. Their style of communication appears to be more emotional than factual. The company has been awarded the Textile Exchange Future Shaper award in 2012 recognising the company’s commitment to promoting the analysis and certification of organic cotton and textiles.
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Brand ReviewMaterialsSupply Chain

Better Business series – Nike

June 19, 2013
In the 1990s Nike was caught in a sweatshop scandal showing poor working conditions in the Asian factories of its suppliers. Today Nike wants to “bring inspiration and innovation to every athlete in the world”. The evolution of the company’s mission is powerful because it adds meaning and purpose to its existence: from “produce”, to “help” to eventually “inspire and innovate”.
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Handbook of sustainable textile production
Book ReviewsMaterialsSupply Chain

Know thy facts: A handbook for textile sustainability practitioners

June 6, 2013
The textile supply and production chain is complex. With this in mind, the ‘Handbook of sustainable textile production‘ is a unique resources: bit fosters knowledge acquisition across the different disciplines and specialities in the textile production chain, it prepares the ground for a factual, holistic discourse, and dissemination of best practise.
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Future TechMaterials

3D printing and fashion: Where are we at, what can we expect?

June 4, 2013
If there is an area of fashion that is truly pushing the boundaries of what is technically and style-wise possible, then it is Haut Couture. In January 2013 2 pieces among Iris van Harpenr’s 11-piece collection at Voltage show attracted the interested of fashionistas as much as product techies: The first ever wearable dresses created through a 3D printing process.
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CircularityMaterialsTrade Shows

Performance Wear: Leading the way of innovation and development in textiles

May 15, 2013
Like its larger sister ISPO – normally taking place at the end of January or the beginning of February, half way between the two Fashion Week cycles – Performance Days feature a high-end portfolio of performance and sports wear manufacturers, many of which actively develop and push the innovation agenda of their industry.
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Brand PortraitsMaterials

The Huguenots – spiritual fathers of ‘Made in Britain’

May 2, 2013
The British textile industry, chances are, never would have reached its former pre-offshoring movement glory if it was not for immigrants. In fact, if it had not been for the Huguenot influence on silk weaving – and by means of cross-fertilisation, cotton and wool – the industry would have served a pure domestic purpose for the 18th, 19th and first half of the 20th century.
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