Future Fit Industries of 'Stuff': Governance, Responsibility, and the Age of Doughnut Economics
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Brand PortraitsTrade Shows

Araisara: Fashion – Piece by piece, a universe of unimaginable possibilities

March 7, 2013
March 22, 2012 : Araisara has completed her last runway show at Japan Fashion Week, and is preparing her collection's launch in Paris in October 2012. But while fashion shows are important, it is the people that remain the one single most important source of inspiration for her brand.
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Biz StrategySupply Chain

Supply Chain Optimisation & Risk – Sustainable Resilience

March 6, 2013
This current post is looking at supply chain risk in the light of the Europe wide ‘Horse meat’ scandal. It remains to be said that the results found so far not only suggest that undeclared horse meat found its way into cheap and low quality, possibly prepared meals. But that there is a much more general, and widely spread problem with meats of different types ending undeclared on the shelves for consumption.
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Biz StrategyConsumer-ismGlobalisation

Consumers know where their clothing is coming from. Or do they?

March 6, 2013
Recently, my colleague Ilaria Pasquinelli and I had the opportunity to participate in a, generally speaking, consumer facing product showcase and trade show. For the purpose of this research, we built an interactive task which required the visitors to cut off one of their garment labels (i.e. the washing instructions), and then pin it to a map attached to a cork board according to 2 dimensions: – ‘Made in‘: Where the garment was manufactured. – ‘Made from‘: What the primary material the garment was made of.
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Consumer-ismLabourSupply Chain

School uniforms for children. Also by children?

February 28, 2013
Parents complain about the prices of school uniforms. Yet - are they also considering that too cheap a price may actually ... get them school uniforms for their children, made by children of that same age?
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Brand PortraitsTrade Shows

Estethica February 2013: What’s new?

February 27, 2013
There are several things that come to your mind when visiting Estethica at London Fashion Week this February. To start with, the new venue , in the West Wing of Somerset House, adopted since last edition, is really sophisticated. Exhibitors are accommodated in rooms with a neat aesthetics that has one aim: making collections the only protagonists. Further, it is interesting to note that, besides the usual “aficionados” like Ada Zanditon or Henrietta Ludgate, there are some interesting international emerging talented brands.
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Wa no iro jiten - cover
Book Reviews

1052 shades of colour: The versatility of Japanese historic natural dyes

February 21, 2013
Japanese historic textiles, as much as their modern version, are famouse for their distinct colour ranges. What few know: all 1052 of these shades are created with natural dyes (only!), and each has its own distinct name.
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Biz StrategyGovernanceOpinions

Change: Triggered through Responsibility with a capital ‘R’

February 20, 2013
In the discussions within companies around risk management and indispensable moves towards more sustainable processes and business practises, there’s habitually unmentioned elephant in the room, namely: Where, in all what needs to be done in the corporate world, does the responsibility of the individual factor in?
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GlobalisationLabels

Spotlight on labels: the Nordic Ecolabel

February 20, 2013
Nordic countries have been recognised for their advanced sustainability practices, particularly at a business level. The Nordic Ecolabel is a voluntary certificate 100% made in Scandinavia that was established in 1989 by the Nordic Council of Ministers. The original aim of the label was probably to respond to the needs of the new “green consumer” movement that strengthened in the 80s after the environmentalism wave of the 1970s.
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Definitions

Ethical Fashion: Definition according to Ariel Azoff of HeartSleeves

February 16, 2013
Fashion that has been produced by people who work reasonable hours in safe conditions and are paid a living wage.
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Brand Portraits

Araisara: Connect the dots, create the future

February 14, 2013
5 years ago one Araisara's customers brought in a long Miyazome-dyed handkerchief. The designer fell in love with this beautiful dye technique. As soon as she could, she visited the Miyazome-dye atelier in Utsunomiya City in the northern Kanto region, some 2 hours from Tokyo on the Shinkanzen bullet train. The atelier was run by just one man, who was well into his 80s.
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Biz StrategyGlobalisationGovernanceSupply Chain

Supply Chain Transparency & Risk: Old wine in New Bottles

February 13, 2013
Supply chain transparency is – as it happens – among the prime concerns of investors when considering their risk. The news is though, that it really isn’t any news at all. Supply chain transparency has been called for for at least a couple of decades – for reasons that are entirely aligned with profitability, customer service, competitive advantage, product quality and so on and so forth.
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DefinitionsMaterials

Upcycling, Recycling, Downcycling: Definitions sorted, challenges remain

February 7, 2013
For most of us within the small professional circles of sustainable fashion, the terms ‘upcycling’, ‘recycling’, and ‘downcycling’ flow aeasy over our lips. However, while there are a few simple definitions of what these terms means – to follow hereafter – the concept demands a bit more attention when drilling down into material streams related to fibres, in particular
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DefinitionsLabelsSupply Chain

The Primary Sustainable Cotton Labels – Briefly Explained

January 31, 2013
In this article a very brief run down of the main varieties of ‘better’ cotton that exist: Cotton made in Africa, Better Cotton Initiative, Organic and Fairtrade cotton, and 2 more generic good practise farming systems.
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Brand PortraitsSupply Chain

The last shirtmaker of England: Rayner & Sturges

January 24, 2013
The Spitalfields taylors Alexander Boyd is London's last shirt maker. All their shirts are made at the Rayner and Sturges factory in Kent. Impressions from the factory, and the 'making of' a bespoke Savile Row shirt.
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Panipat Shoddy Yarn
CircularityMaterialsSupply Chain

Panipat Stories – Textile recycling, hardcore

January 17, 2013
Panipat is an ancient and historic city in the Panipat district, state of Haryana, India. The city is the global centre of “Shoddy Yarn”. It is a business that is worth 1 billion dollars world wide. 85% of the volume is for the domestic marketm 15% for export. But the industry has more shadows then there is light ...
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Consumer-ismDefinitions

Fashion terminology: why should we bother?

January 15, 2013
One of the challenges of sustainable fashion is the wording used to define it. We commonly associate adjectives like “sustainable”, “green”, “eco”, “responsible”, “conscious”, “ethical” with the word “fashion”. The question is: are certain words more popular than others? Or are some others nowadays outdated? How do consumer talk about sustainable fashion? And the industry?
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Brand PortraitsSupply Chain

Fabrics of Community – India and the ‘new’ Khadi

January 10, 2013
Khadi is an Indian fabric par excellence. Hand-made from start to finish it has for centuries been the livelihood of rural communities. But the industry is in decline. Interview with Shailini Seth-Amin, CEO of MoralFibres, a company set to re-invent Khadi.
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Brand ReviewConsumer-ismTrade Shows

Sustainable fashion in Amsterdam equals fine design

January 7, 2013
Dutch design is defined as “minimalist, experimental, innovative, quirky, and humorous”. This sophisticated and open-minded taste, typically northern European, is consistent across product design, architecture and fashion. This article looks at the landscape in the Amsterdam specifically.
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MaterialsSupply Chain

Is the leather industry next in line for a ‘Detox’?

January 6, 2013
In Medieval times the location of a tannery was heavily based on the requirements of a nearby river or stream, cattle which could supply the hide, and of course oak trees which would supply the bark needed for the tanning process. In the present, because of the demand for luxury at the cheapest possible prices, the industry is pushed out to where it is easier to ignore the moral and environmental reek.
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Brand PortraitsSupply Chain

Fashion, SMEs, and environmental sustainability: Are traditional skills the answer? (Part 2 of 2)

January 3, 2013
How can environmental sustainability benefit from small and micro units? And, how can it be ensured that the associated skills sets are unique, yet valuable to the global fashion industry as a whole? Through 2 designer case studies from the UK, and a co-operative in India, we show how different potential solutions could look like.
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