By: Ilaria Pasquinelli, Twitter: @ilaria78, international marketing consultant for the textile and fashion industry.
Dutch design is defined as “minimalist, experimental, innovative, quirky, and humorous”. This sophisticated and open-minded taste, typically northern European, is consistent across product design, architecture and fashion. It is not easy to find hard data about the fashion industry as it seem to get lost in the statistics about the bigger creative industry. Some insights can be found at Modint, the trade association for textile, clothing and interiors sectors. Among the 800 members, fashion represents 595 members. They generate an annual turnover of 9 billion Euro, of which, 45 % is exported.
Dutch fashion is a mix of global retailers, like Mexx and G-Star, and a population of something like 4,600 independent designers. Amsterdam Fashion Week may not be considered one of the main events in the international fashion calendar but, in the city there are undoubtedly new interesting events to watch. Mint is one of these.
Mint is the sustainable fashion event within Modefabriek, the most important fashion trade show for the Benelux. 21 brands are exhibiting at the upcoming edition (20-21 January 2013) and all of them needed to fill out a rigorous questionnaire to have their ethical credentials assessed. Independent stores from Benelux and particularly The Netherlands visit this trade show regularly to find new designer labels that can distinguish them from mainstream retailers.
Walking around Haarlemstraat and Haarlemdijk, in Jordaan district, well known for independent shopping, at least 3 stores are worth a visit.
Nukuhiva opened in 2006, and was one of the first stores to offer sustainable fashion in Amsterdam. It is a typical ethical fashion boutique founded by Floortje Dessing, a TV presenter who learned about social and environmental issues around the fashion industry when visiting the countries where garments are made. Ali Hewson, Bono Vox’s wife, was involved in the store opening, and Edun is regularly stocked. All brands are vetted for their ethical credentials, and social (particularly fairtrade) and environmental criteria are considered equally. The range of brands is truly international: Britain’s Elvis and Kresse, and Komodo, and Bibico from Spain.
Restored is not quite a fashion store, but more of a sophisticated lifestyle and design space that gives visibility to truly Dutch products, from ceramics to fashion accessories and interiors. They also offer styling and decoration services to create and decorate entire spaces, as well as unique party and wedding venues. All stocked designers are small and independent ,and celebrate balance and uniqueness.
Finally, Sukha is a concept store where fashion and interior products are the protagonists. Products are a mix of Dutch and international brands mainly from countries like Nepal, Morocco, or Peru. Natural shades and chunky hand-made sweaters and accessories catch the eye. Next to small designer labels sit pieces from more established brands like Humanoid and Antik Batik or L’Herbe Rouge. The latter is one of the more established French clothing brand and uses only fibres rated as class A and B with regard to their environmental impact: all garments carry a hang tag which informs consumers about the types of fibres used, their rating and an explanation on the criteria.
