The value of skin – How cheap can leather be?

Leather Show Leather. There’s hardly any other material used in the apparel industry, that has so many different ‘faces’ to it. For one, most leather products are either classy or else just plainly vulgar, this specifically applies to garments. But then again, for no other material, maybe other than silk, ‘price’ – or rather ‘expensive’ – is the next best attribute that comes to mind.

Tanning, the process of converting an organic piece of animal skin into a material that does not only not decay, but in addition is soft enough to be turned into a garment, a bag, a pair of shoes, gloves, a hat … is both, amazingly simple and at the same time surprisingly sophisticated. A process in which chemicals, be it man-made ones or those created by ingredients found in nature, play an important role; and where, if scaled to fit with mass-consumption habits, the environment can be (and by all accounts is) impacted heavily.

In my recent 10 day holiday in Italy, leather goods were omnipresent: in shop windows, artisans workshops advertising their services in one way or another, souvenir articles on offer, open air stalls at markets and popular tourist spots, factory direct sales signposts any many other details in the streets.

The designs aside – I just personally prefer what I see in Italy or Spain, fashion-wise speaking, over what I’ve come to see elsewhere – the quality over all was high … and the prices were … too cheap? Maybe, that is.

What I in the end had to come to terms with is, that I have no grasp whatsoever of how to judge leather products in detail.
The product as a whole, or rather, the product’s overall quality, is still within what I’m confident to have an opinion on. But ‘fair’ (as opposed to ‘too cheap’ or ‘too expensive’) price? Tanning quality? Sturdiness in everyday wear? Quality of the source leather before tanning?

No chance. I just simply can’t tell weather 75 Euros for a gorgeous looking pair of colourful leather boots is fair, or rather unsustainably under-priced. And I am equally unable to ask the critical questions about how the leather has been tanned in detail, which parts of a cow skin are specifically being used for that one cool bag, or what dyes were used to obtain the purple shade of above mentioned pair of boots.

Yet – I feel all those leather goods I saw were somehow a tad too cheap. Or maybe I’m just obsessed with the environmental damage done in their production given their price point?

Do you have any detailed insights into the production of leather, and notably also it’s product costing? If so, please use the comment section underneath to let me – and other readers – know!

Either way – the remedy to this lack of insights will, in one way or another, have to become the material for a future blog post here on Shirahime.

Leather Note Books
Leather bound note books at a market stall in Florence, Italy.
Picture (c): Chaminda De Silva Gamhewage
  1. Actually, as lovely as leather can be, it is obtained by murdering the animal whose hide it was. Leather could be said to be a by product of the meat trade, but good hides are often from little eaten animals.

    It is our choice. Every purchase we make is a political one with broad ramifications.

  2. Hey Pamela,

    This is an interesting post, for a variety of reasons:

    The first is, as you mentioned, the perceived value of leather. This may surprise some, but leather is a fairly cheap substrate to buy.

    For example: I can buy a top grade upholstery hide (aka the best quality I can buy) for around £3.5 to £4.5 /sqft.

    Of course, once you start skimping on quality (DFS Sofa comes to mind…) the leather becomes much cheaper still.

    To quickly answer your questions:

    Leather is graded by thickness and overall quality of the hide. Generally speaking, the lower the quality, the more treatment the hide will undergo.

    One of the best-known trick of the cheap leather industry, is simply to “split” the hides, meaning they slice them in half and get twice the leather (mind you, it’s thin!) for their money. The rough side is then artificially rendered smooth again. That’s also where suede comes from.

    As for the quality of the tanning/dyeing, again, generally speaking, the higher the quality of the raw hide, the least “obstructed” the finished product.

    A top grade hide will most likely be reserved for a semi-opaque dye. This type of finish has depth of colour and will show natural markings & variations of the hide.

    Another practice which is very common is stamping. It’s basically creating a uniform look throughout the hide, by mechanically stamping a grain pattern.

    So when I buy a leather good, first I feel it. Then I try to gage it’s thickness. The I look at the finish: Can I still see the leather? Does it feel nice or does it feel like a coat of paint? Of course, bear in mind that some vivid colours cannot be obtained without completely obstructing the leather. I also look at the quality of the stitching, the edge finishing, etc.

    As for tanning and it’s impact on the environment, well I guess it depends on whether or not it was down in a closed cycle.

    The biggest problem in developing nations is that all of this is done in an uncontrolled environment, allowing all the worse chemicals to leach into the soil.

    Most modern leather is limed with a basic agent (lime), with the addition of a sulfide (ie. arsenic sulfide). This removes all the hair and preps the hide for tanning.

    Then it is either tanned by

    1. Vegetable method, which uses tannic acid (tannin), naturally found in chestnut or oak bark, pomegranate rind, myrobolan, quebracho, etc. These are all used as substantive dyes for natural dyeing of fabric.
    This is somewhat time-consuming, as the hides are generally soaked for several weeks. It produces a flexible hide, used for uphostery, luggage, etc.

    or

    2. Mineral method, which is by far the most taxing in terms of environmental cost. This uses primarily chromium sulphate as tanning agent and it very quick (less than a day). It produces a very flexible hide, favoured for the use of garments and handbags. Needless to say that chrome is a very toxic compound, which has been linked to a smorgasbord of cancers and other related illnesses.

    So there, that’s the cost of leather in short!

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