“Traceability is the ability to track forward the movement through specified stage(s) of the extended supply chain and trace backward the history, application or location of that which is under consideration.” (Source: Global Traceability Standard).
Traceability can be implemented at three different levels of stringency. Which level is implemented typically depends on the exact needs (technical, quality), legal and customer requirements – and last but not least also on the budget available. The three types/levels of traceability are:
- Lot traceability: means that the materials used in a given product can be traced to the batch (‘lot’) of individual product items that went through the manufacturing process together. Example: 10 black dresses size 10.(Level 1 traceability)
- Component traceability: applies to the individual components of a finished product. In essence, it could be a ‘lot traceability’ mark for the components of the above mentioned dress, such as zippers, (Level 2 traceability)
- Source traceability means that in tracing a finished item, it can be plucked apart first into its primary components, and each of the components can be traced back to its origin in recursively for its sub-components and ultimately the raw material used. (Level 3 traceability and beyond)
As the degree of detail required for each of the above levels increases with the level, and so does the complexity of the task at hand, each level adds costs.
Lot identification is widely and commonly used across all industries, in applications such as order and delivery systems, quality control systems, warehousing systems etc.
Source traceability, the most expensive option, is implemented only in critical applications, such as the construction of a nuclear power facility. Component traceability is often specified for main and crucial components that impact product quality decisively (e.g. members in bridges).
Traceability and the apparel/textile industry
Traceability is a topic of relevance in fashion and textiles for a number of reasons, some – but not all – relate to sustainability. Some of these are:
- Authenticity guarantee: Particularly for luxury, high-end and safety critical products (outdoor industry), in order to prevent forgery.
- Quality control (of raw materials / manufacturing): Again specifically of interest for expensive and safety critical products, or products produced in very large batches.
- Reputation: Ultimately as an exercise in risk mitigation, although no doubt there is a relevant component of quality control contain therein. Here traceability serves a) to ascertain the origins of raw materials (e.g. for reasons of environmental damage, child labour, animal abuse etc.)
- Standard audits: Today, many products or brands carry or adhere to standards of various types. be it organic cotton or ISO9001, traceability is ultimately a built in procedural, and compulsory aspect of all of these.
- Savings/efficiencies: Knowing exactly how much material is used at any given production stage, identifying flaws and waste, is more efficient, at the end of the day. Traceability is one way to achieve and mainstream such efforts in a stringent and logical way.
Conceptually, the (IT) systems behind the ability to trace products throughout their supply chain are an sophisticated version of ordering and supply chain management systems that have been in place for at least a couple of decades, pioneered by JIT automobile manufacturers.
For FTCM products, it is most often food products where they come into action, although mixed retailers – stellar among them: Marks & Spencer – intend to roll their efforts out across their whole product range, including fashion, textiles, interiors or toys.
That it is, in principle, possible to indeed trace all ingredients and components for a textile-based products is proven by the way through practise: This is precisely what happens for car air bags – the reasons of course being either legal or safety related, but it shows that it is totally possibly to trace a textile-based product from A to Z.
The fact though remains: In apparel and textiles the interest in traceability has only very recently emerged as a direct consequence of one of the above mentioned reasons.
And this despite the fact that traceability topic can be swung in a number of interesting ways with regards to the consumer:
One: It is a sensational opportunity to mass-customise marketing efforts and consumer engagement through the products themselves.
Two: It fosters the customer’s trust towards a brand, its products – suggesting safety in every sense of the word.
Three: It answers all question customers may have straight away. Sure, by far not all will be interest in where exactly their t-Shirt was made. But those that do – and/or have further concerns that relate to how something has been manufactured – can be either a pain in the rear to the brands (typical case), or just another customer (if the info is readily available).
Video: TEDxZurich. Switcher CEO Robin Cornelius wants to make clothing traceable
