One of the first discussions when it comes to using more ‘sustainable’ ways to produce fashion and textiles is: do you use organic (or fairtrade) cotton?
The question alone is a misunderstanding, assuming that the decision is solely between these two types of cotton – when it fact it could not only be for a completely different type of label, or even not for cotton at all, for that matter. After all, from a sustainability point of view, cotton certainly is not the best possible choice. But it remains one, if not the easiest. And cotton remains by far the most popular natural fibre in fashion and textiles.
In this article hence, a very brief run down of the main varieties of ‘better’ cotton that exist. As the topic as such is vast, and not precisely an easy one either, I’ll link to further digitally available resources. In writing this, I assume that you, the reader, is aware that cotton per se is not a very sustainable fibre – yet, it is by far the most popular natural fibre used in textiles and fashion.
Note: IGCS refers to the following source: Simon Ferrigno, ‘The Insider’s Guide to Cotton & Sustainability‘.
Cotton Made in Africa
Cotton made in Africa has two principle goals, of which one is environmental and the other social.
Socially, it defines itself as a ‘social business‘:
“Cotton Made in Africa works on the principles of a social business. That means the initiative operates in accordance with sound business methods, except that it does not aim to maximise the profits of individuals, but rather to improve the conditions of life of a large number of African cotton farmers. In order to do that, it is building an alliance of international retail companies, which have targeted demand in the global market for sustainably produced cotton, and use this material in their products“. Other than fair trade (or fairtrade) where higher prices are guaranteed to farmers, they claim to avoid subsidies and artificial price increases, and instead build on strategic alliances with retailers to guarantee fair prices and an increasing demand.
Environmentally, the Cotton Made in Africa is “a production system based on Good Agricultural Practises (GAP), defined as 'practises that address environmental, economic and social sustainability for on.farm processes, and result in safe and quality food and non.food agricultural products'” (Source: IGCS).
Better Cotton Initiative
The Better Cotton Initiative is possibly the newest among the presented ‘labels’. It’s focus is fairly holistic, and encompasses social as well as environmental criteria.
Importantly, it is not yet another certification or labelling scheme, but rather a cotton production concept that is akin to the continuous improvement paradigm very originally introduced by ISO9001, including the relevant benchmarks.
At origins of the term ‘Better Cotton’ was an intense cooperation with a multi-stakeholder group of organisations, who then together defined what a ‘better, more sustainable way of growing cotton‘ would look like.
The definition is based on 6 basic principles: minimise harmgul impacts from crop protection practices, use water efficiently, maintain healthy soil, preserve natural habitats, preserve fibre quality and promote decent work.
Every Better Cotton farmer meets the above criteria to start with. In addition, and equally important, they also commit to the principle of continuous improvement. The iniative thereby helps the farmer to do that by providing data monitoring, training and other support.
Fairtrade Cotton
Cotton is an enormously important commodity throughout the world. Prices fluctuate, and many farmers in developing countries receive a low price for their produce, or find it difficult to compete with developed countries due to subsidies provided by the latter (specifically the US).
Fairtrade cotton guarantees them a sustainable cotton price that covers the full costs of growing cotton, and also allows them to invest in the future. Additionally, a small premium over the true farm gate cost, called the fairtrade premium, finally, brings further money paid into a community pot, from where projects that benefit the whole community can be paid for.
The Fairtrade standard also includes some Integrated Pest Management principles (see later) and some of the more hazzardous pesticides are banned.
Organic Cotton
Organic farming is based on agro-ecological principles, and all synthetic pesticides and fertilisers are banned. Organin farming uses adpated varieties, local inputs, green manures, composts, crop rotation etc. instead. (Source: IGCS)
Since its launch in 2006, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has since evolved into the leading set of criteria in the field of organic textile processing. The standard origined in a multi-stakeholder process of various national organic certification bodies, from Japan, to Germany, the US and the UK. They were able to find solutions to national differences that previously were considered non-negotiable. As a consequence, the GOTS standard has since gone from stength to strength, and is in the present the most recognised and validated organic cotton standard. There remain however private, commercial, proprietary labeling and certification systems, among which Textile Exchange is possibly one of the largest.
There are 2 further generic agricultural approaches that don’t come with their own label or certification, but are recognised crop management methodologies:
Integrated Pest Management
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is an effective and environmentally relatively sensitive approach to pest management that relies on a combination of common-sense practices. It aims to suppress pest populations below the levels that are critical to the crop, cotton in this case. It is a system that promotes: “1) growing healthy crop 2) prevention of the development of pest populations 3) Preservation and encouragement of populations of beneficial insects 4) regular observation of the leath of the crop and populations of pests and beneficials 5) management of pesticide resistance.” (Source: IGCS)
An example of specific cotton related guides for Integrated Pest Managemenet Systems has been issued by the Australian Cotton Catchment Communities initiative.
Video: University of Maryland, Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Basics
Integrated Pest and Production Management
Integrated Pest and Production Management is similar to the above, but focuses on building system resilience to pets rather than on pesticides use. This entails cultural practises that avoide the development of pest populations, preserbation of beneficial insects, and n emphasis on production factors including soil structure and soil fertiliy.(Source: IGCS)
