By: Hannah-Jane Taskis, Sustainable Fashion & Lifestyle Adviser, @hjfantaskis
Earlier this month, industry leaders, campaigners, revolutionary thinkers, and designers convened under Pavegen’s beautiful installations (constructed from recycled waste) at the V&A Museum for the Observer Ethical Awards.
The awards were presented by celebrated public figures across the spectrum. From model and sustainable fashion advocate Lily Cole, actor Colin Firth (husband to Eco-Age’s Livia Firth) to political figures Baroness Lola Young (also on the judging panel) & Greg Barker, Minister of State for Energy and Climate Change.
The judges are experts in their fields, but how were the winners of each category decided? A remark from Stacey Dooley (TV presenter & campaigner) and the ‘Public Vote’ are cause for reflection. Dooley, on the judging panel of the Grassroots category, described her attraction to Bristol Bike Project since, “[she] thought it was a really good feeling-…[a] strong entry” [at 00:22secs]. This seems to suggest the entries were judged by their appeal to the public’s ‘feel-good’ sensors, alongside the project’s ‘ethical’ value.
Arguably, this ‘feel-good’ factor is as important as the projects’ impact on their immediate benefactors. It encourages consumers to spend and it builds confidence in the projects’ activities. If the project features these ‘feel-good’ elements as intrinsic components of their ethos and operation, it becomes easier to promote through the media and high-profile events such as the OEA. To combat feelings of futility, the frequent plight of an environmentalist, Bristol Bike Project brilliantly engaged with marginalised groups of society, recycled abandoned and broken bikes, taught skills, encouraged people to get on their bikes and – in turn – reduced their carbon footprint.
Unfortunately, the ‘Public Vote’ is not an entirely astute method of selecting the winning candidate on their ethical merit. How can, for example, the public be expected to make a personal connection with a consultancy which manages the nuts-and-bolts of the textile industry?
Charlie Ross of Offset Warehouse (OW) and final candidate for the Online Retailer award brings manufacturers, designers and consultants together with businesses looking to source their apparel and interior textiles from ethical suppliers. This crucial – but largely unseen – operation is not widely discussed in the media. And, arguably, if it is not a discussion of supply-chain ethics, why should it be? Ross’ competition was Riverford Organic Vegetables (ROV). Organic food has received substantial media attention, to the extent that a consumer (i.e. without industry-level knowledge) is able to engage with the topic.
The ‘Public Vote’ relies on an ability to align and associate itself with the venture and ROV achieves this magnificently.
The judging process also highlighted issues of self-promotion. In conversation with Ross, she reflected that she had not actively ‘put forward’ information about OW to the panel, and so it was likely the judges gauged OW’s ethical impact from the literature available from her website. OW’s website is attractive, accessible and comes with an exceptionally nifty ‘About Us’ video. In the sensible effort to keep navigation and information as simple as possible, the site lacks a showcase of OW’s achievements and work with previous clients. ROV, aimed at the public – rather than highly specialist buyers – advertises its products with colourful pictures and consumer-friendly price lists. To an extent, the judges used the website just as potential customers of OW would, and Ross regards the overall experience as a learning curve, planning to ‘showcase more.’ Ross added the recognition of ranking in the categories ‘reinforced that [she is] doing something worthwhile.’ It would seem that media-friendly events like the OEA provide a much needed reconfirmation of everyone’s efforts.
Whilst many came away from the event enthused and encouraged, some left nettled.
Greg Barker, Minister of State for Energy and Climate Change, and seemingly champion of solar & other renewable energies presented the award for Ethical Business. Lauding the ‘potential of solar energy underestimated’ in the Guardian earlier this month, on 8th June, he supported the Bill which cuts funding to government investment in large-scale solar photovoltaic panels.
His presence on the night caused quiet outrage with some attendees. Whilst backing the cuts, and theoretically supporting small-scale solar panelling (e.g. for home-owners), his paradoxical stance could have a significant impact on the development and wide-scale availability of solar energy. Funding for subsidising small-scale panels has been capped, despite rapid business growth in the sector to date. Duncan Clarke, reporting for the Guardian, discusses this issue in more depth, but he fears capping could strangle competition; realistically, the pot will be quickly emptied, and businesses will need to decide hastily whether to invest now, or ‘risk getting locked out.’
Until recently, ethical fashion was – primarily – for a niche market, offering a ‘wholesome’ approach to apparel (and often to the neglect of the aesthetic). The OEA offered a glamorous backdrop; to have a category dedicated to ‘ethical fashion’ marked its prominence in the market and impact on public awareness of environmental issues. This year, ethical fashion orientated blog Shirahime, fashion brand Pachacuti, and jeweller & campaigner Greg Valerio were deservedly recognised for their outstanding work and commitment to the sector.
At the close of the evening Observer Magazine editor, Ruaridh Nicoll, remarked with delight, ‘taking action is becoming glamorous.’
