TheyKey.to, Berlin: D1 – Innovation and Design

TheKey.to Day 1
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Tomorrow: TheyKey.to, Berlin: Day 2 – Collaboration and Education

TheKey.to is only one of several events during Berlin Fashion Week (BFW) that focuses on sustainable (ethical) fashion. Other events with the same or a similar aim, but slightly older, are:
The Green Showroom. Target audience: Upper price segment.
– The Eco-Showroom
– The fashion shows of various sustainable labels at Lavera Showfloor – GREEN AVANTGARDE
– And last, but certainly not least, the fashion show by the rather famous Danish designer label Noir.

TheKey.to occupies however, a special position among the events in Berlin, as well as among the ethical fashion shows across Europe:
On the one hand, with the January 2011 edition only being its third, it is likely the youngest show among those in Europe. EstEthica, Paris Ethical Fashion Show or Geneva Ethical Fashion Days have all been set up a number of years ago already.

On the other side, it compares despite, or maybe because?, of its recent inception rather favourably to other European ‘green’ fashion shows. In a – admittedly rather intuitive – comparison of London Fashion Week’s ‘EstEthica’, the ‘Paris Ethical Fashion Show’, and ‘TheKey.to’ after only a few hours of attending the latter, my conclusions is:

  • EstEthica is geared towards the high end of the market – not the least price-wise, while EPFS is in tendency more geared towards the more ‘affordable’ middle-upper segment, which is also the market segment TheKey.to is aiming for.
  • Both, EstEthica as well as EPFS are overall fairly local affairs, meaning UK, resp. France, centered, and in that again London, resp. Paris, centered. This is not saying that there are no international brands to be found in either of these two events, but rather that the overall ambiance, at least with respect to the 2010 editions, is that of a close-knit group not looking far beyond what is happening in their front yard. TheKey.to again feels more international and a place of exchange of ideas and opinions among peers.
  • At TheKey.to, brands from countries otherwise not exactly known for their commitment to ‘sustainability’ were present. At the same time, these were complemented by brands that are relatively new to the scene, and despite their clear achievements in the areas of design and sustainability, have not attended either EPFS or EstEthica, and have not been heard of in e.g. the UK. In the 01/2011 theKey.to edition, brands from (in alphabetical order) Austria, Canada, Denmark, Estland, Germany, France, Holland, Italy, Peru, Senegal, Spain, Sweden, and the UK were exhibiting.
  • Design-wise, TheKey.to outperforms EstEthica and EPFS. Period. The exhibiting designers and labels have, with few exceptions, clearly their own, well recognisable, distinct signatures, each contrasting stronger with what surrounds them than I have experienced it either in London or in Paris. The variety of compelling designs is intriguing, the colours cover a broader spectrum and the cuts are friendly to female bodies of all shapes and sizes without loosing out on style in any way. And finally, it feels as if the average level of craftsmanship is higher among the creators and designers of the labels present here in Berlin.

Video: Final entry of the models at the 01/2011 TheKey.to cat walk.

With TheKey.to being a relatively young event, there is no doubt though that there remains still ground to be covered for it to attract the same level of attention as e.g. EstEthica among professionals and the general public. For instance, the number of pre-registered buyers and attendants has doubled since the last edition, yet there is considerable room for improvement. And then, the collaboration with Bread & Butter, the mainstream track of Berlin Fashion Week, needs to be improved. A first step has been taken this year with the choice of a location which is only a 5 minute walk away from the Bread & Butter’s main venue.

This all said, I have little doubt that TheKey.to is the event to be watched among the sustainable (and mainstream) fashion events, certainly in Europe. The selection of innovative, young designers from all across Europe and even overseas, each with its particular signature, makes it a place where discoveries of new, up and raising brands are indeed possible.

Tomorrow: TheyKey.to, Berlin: Day 2 – Collaboration and Education
Previous: Ethical Fashion Source Expo October 2010 – Review & Best Of