Tomorrow: The hidden gems at LFW & EstEthica: Young designers.
London Fashion Week – for many people around the globe, THE fashion show to be at, and an opportunity to exhibit (or rather: expose?) themselves without any shame. So far the cliche.
Few people realise however, that the event is – first and foremost – a trade show for brands and producers of all types of makes. Surprised?
Better be not, because despite all the wooing, LWF is in essence a dead serious, commercial event where all that counts is the number of people you’ve managed to pitch your brand to, that asked for your business cards, that seem like either good contacts or good leads – and the amount of sales generated in the aftermaths of the event. London Fashion Week hence, is all about building networks and reputation, being seen, recognised and remembered. And the competition is brutal.
Surprise No. 2 is the location. The LFW is traditionally held at the Somerset House. Built in the 16th and completed in the 17th Century, the building, while grand, is a true maze. Long corridors, rooms linking with each other in no clear concept, large stairways, small rooms giving way to large rooms, which again lead straight into tiny cupboard like hide-aways. The Somerset House is, to be fair, not a terribly ideal location for a trade show.
But: It is not at last the historic back ground that makes it an interesting venue for such prominent an event as LFW. Even the ease with which one gets lost in its hallways has its benefit: One discovers interesting designs literally at the turn of every corner.
Suprise No. 3 – the big delusion of the general public: Entrance to the cat walks are not ‘first come, first serve’. They are expensive shows organised and paid for by the designer lables – and as such only give access upon invitation. In short: If you regularly buy your gear at Issey Miyake or Vivienne Westwood, the ticket to their cat walk is a ‘thank-you’ freebie.
This year, for the first time ever, LFW hosted – in addition to EstEthica, the exhibitors’ track dedicated to sustainable fashion – a sustainable cat walk. Held at Clarence House, in collaboration with and part of “A Garden Party to Make a Difference“.
The ‘short but sweet’ show featured designs by Ada Zanditon, Bottletop, Christopher Reaburn, Erin O Conner & Kate Halfpenny, From Somewhere, Goodone, Henrietta Ludgate, Junky Styling, Noki – JJ Hudson, Kayu, Little Glass Clementine, Lu Flux, Made, Maxjenny, Minna, Michelle Lowe-Holder, Nina Dolcetti, Pachacuti, Partimi, Sonja Kashmiri, Stella McCartney, Stewart Brown, and Vivienne Westwood.
Among the public Boris Johnson, Mayor of London, Christopher Reaburn and Noki could be spotted …
The sheer fact that from this year on, sustainable fashion has got a dedicated catwalk – and since this is a “First”, sequels are expected and highly desired – is decisive. Until now ethical fashion has existed at the margins of London fashion week, hidden away in the basement of the Somerset House. From now on however, the spotlight will by all expectations be set at least once in during LFW on those designers that are highly talented, but that strive even harder than the common main stream to combine their skill and craft with innovation to achieve cutting edge results.
Impressions from the 1st ever LFW sustainable catwalk:
Tomorrow: The hidden gems at LFW & EstEthica: Young designers.
