Yesterday: London Fashion Week February 2011: D4 – EcoLuxe: London’s take on ‘green’ luxury
Looking back over a specific edition of an event such as London Fashion Week is always a try at gauging the bigger picture. And in doing so, it is also a guess at where the overall development is heading to.
The 02/2011 edition of London Fashion Week, I think, can be summarised as follows:
- The importance of London Fashion Week seems to be shrinking. It’s a few seasons already that the event becomes progressively less international on the one side, but also that the number of small designers as represented in the Designers’ Exhibition is decreasing.
- This is strikingly shown by the numbers of brands exhibiting at EstEthica. From 33 brands in 09/2010 down to 22 in the current 02/2011 edition.
- The luxury segment may not be the most popular of all for the high street, but it is where a lot of an event’s reputation is created. This means that beyond the cultivation of customers such as practises by the established brands, ‘trampoline’ showcase events for up and raising luxury designers are needed – beyond cat walks.
Strangely enough, EcoLuxe has created exactly such a platform for their peer group of ethical designers in the top price range, although it is a young event and in many ways still carries the informality of its age when their target group may not necessarily appreciate this aspect. - London, and with it the whole of UK, is suffering from an ‘age of austerity’ not only on a political and bureaucratic-financial level, but also in fashion. All eyes are turned inwards, and so do many of the design approaches. Island mentality is growing stronger by the day. While nothing is to be said against ‘Made in Britain’, one has to be aware that it is neither a guarantor for innovation, nor for ‘sustainability’ in the supply chain, nor necessarily for skilled craftsmanship.
- Casual wear, be it for hitting the streets in your free time, the weekend, or – in the more luxurious version – parties and clubs, is all fine and good. But for one thing Savile Row maintains its reputation till the present. There is very little ‘classic’, yet contemporary design out there. Few collections contain a piece, much less several, that qualifies for business or elected formal wear. Granted, it’s not cool, nor groovy or sexy to be seen selling business and formal classics. But the reality is that a substantial percentage of clothing needs to fit the context of Monday to Friday 9 to 5 routine. Not to mention the amount of money that a sizeable portion of professionals spend on their business wardrobe … both, from the high-street to the luxury segment.
At the bottom line, I would very boldly state that when it comes to innovative designs as well as classy collections, more fun is to be had in Paris, in Milan, in Florence at Pitti – and even, or maybe better: unexpectedly, in Berlin. As far as ‘green’ fashion is concerned, Berlin leads the way before Paris, London comes a distant third, and the rest need not be talked about.
Yesterday: London Fashion Week February 2011: D4 – EcoLuxe: London’s take on ‘green’ luxury
